Showing posts with label augusto sandino. Show all posts
Showing posts with label augusto sandino. Show all posts

Sunday, August 04, 2013

El Eskimo, Then Buen Viaje!

Today was our last full day in Nicaragua, and it was made completely free of any sort of productivity. We ate lunch at Restaurante El Eskimo, of Eskimo brand ice cream fame. The food was honestly pretty bad, but we were really there for the ice cream. Lydia ordered a giant banana split, and I had to fight to get even one tiny bite of it.




We had to stop our bus in Nejapa and wait for a procession to pass. I assume it had to do with the Santo Domingo festival. We had been hearing fireworks and loud music pretty much every single night while at our compound.







Our last official group outing was to the market. It wasn't as scary as the one we visited earlier thankfully. This one had a section devoted to tourist trinkets as well as food and lots more. I didn't end up buying anything, but the people watching and the scenery made the visit well worth it. It was here that I think I was the most threatened I'd been during my whole visit. There was a group of teenagers in fake looking "security" uniforms that approached me and demanded a donation. It was pretty clear what they wanted but I stuck to my "I don't speak Spanish" routine and kept walking, and thankfully the little Hitler Youth eventually gave up.


The next morning we flew from Augusto Sandino International to George Bush Intercontinental. That felt pretty funny.



Saturday, August 03, 2013

The Secret Tour of Managua

The first half of the day was mostly a repeat. We went to the children’s hospital and passed out more toys and took Polaroids of mothers with their new babies. I heard that the reason we don’t go to the hospital’s second floor is that the building isn't structurally sound. That prompted a discussion on which floor you’d rather be on if the building collapsed.




The process of our group exchanging currency consisted of whistling at a guy on the side of the road. He would hop on the bus, do the conversions with a small calculator, and hand out the bills.


Some of our group went out to the houses in the town to pass out the toys that were remaining from the hospital visits. They predictably had several kids following them all over. They said that one kid even changed his shirt in order to try to get two toys.




After lunch we had made previous arrangements to go on a secret tour of the city. We only told our group leader, mostly because all of the seats in our taxi were already reserved and we didn't want anyone else to feel sour about it. The part of the plan that I was most proud of was that the husband of the principal at the school we’d been toiling at was a cab driver. I thought that pretty much guaranteed protection against any sort of taxi shadiness that can arise when in a foreign land.

My trusty guidebook really shined at this point. I had already read about several places that I wanted to go and check out. Emilio, a local Managuan who works with our group, was also kind enough to come with us and help guide us around.

Our first stop was the Museo Las Huellas(footprints) de Acahualinca. As our beat up taxi arrived at the museum, we weren't completely sure that we were at the right place. The front of the building was entirely caged in and the guard behind the closed gate didn't move a muscle as we approached. He finally lost the staring contest and mumbled something as he swung open the gate. Our treatment by the ticket-takers was similarly strange. They acted like they had never performed this transaction before. One funny thing: I believe it was 4 dollars to get in and 5 if we wanted to take pictures. Since our pal Emilio was Nicaraguan he got in free. Lucky dog, that guy. (I figured that since just about everyone in Nicaragua accepted US dollars that there wasn't any point in going through the hassle of currency exchange, so dollars means dollars kids.)

Well once we got in I thought that the site itself was pretty interesting but the attached museum’s production values were pretty weak. I didn't see much explaining the excavation site either. Not a single brochure was to be had.

The footprints were made 6000 years ago by people walking across volcanic mud. This has got to be the oldest evidence of humanity that I have ever seen.










We drove by the US Embassy. It was like a fortress city, very similar to the one I saw in Colombia.


Next we checked out the national square area. One side had some sort of presidential palace but Emilio said the president doesn't live there. It sounded like a pretty strange situation.

On a different side of the square stood the Catedral de Santiago. It was about as close to ruins as a building can be while still standing. That gave it a definite vampires-live-here sort of spooky quality. It was not open for visitors.








Also on the square was the National Palace of Culture. It was funny because we initially said we wanted to go to the “national palace” and the cab dropped us off in front of the same post office building that we had been at a couple days prior. You’d think there’d only be one national palace per country. Who knows. The first floor of the real national palace held the national museum. This operation was thankfully running much more smoothly than the footprint place. It was cheap, and the guy that took our money at the door then gave us a guided tour of the entire museum. Emilio was kind enough to translate. The museum boasted a good overview of the country’s natural history with volcanoes, rivers, and dinosaurs.






The cultural stuff was probably the most interesting. 


























They had an entire room devoted to the costumes used during productions of El Gueguense, a satirical drama performed during the feast of San Sebastián. 








Outside we stumbled on a student parade of some sort.




We left the little square and then Emilio took over in giving the cab driver directions. We went to a nice lookout area that provided a great view of the city below. There was even a gigantic Augusto Sandino silhouette up there standing watch.




The little tank was a gift from Mussolini.




This is the rear of Managua's Crowne Plaza Hotel. According to the guide book a very crazy sounding Howard Hughes lived on the top floor until the large earthquake of 1972. He "spent most of his days sitting naked on his favourite high-backed leather chair engrossed in films". His daily diet while at the hotel consisted of Campbell's soup and Hershey's chocolate bars. 


We then headed over to Puerto Salvador Allende which was a really nice little waterfront area. There were lots of different restaurants and shops lined up along Lake Managua. I appreciated the help choosing the place because it wasn't very well described in my guidebook, and I would have missed it!














Lastly we went to one of the big malls in town, Metrocentro. I thought it would be a nice change of pace in case the girls were sick of doing all the stuff I wanted to do. We did a little shopping, hit the food court, and then headed home. I’d say our double secret trip was a success.




Keeping with the style in Nicaragua, the mall was only sort of halfway contained. There were lots of spaces that opened directly to the outside. Because of this many of the stores in the mall had their glass doors closed with their own air-conditioners humming within.




Friday, August 02, 2013

San Juan del Sur

Today was the big day. Everyone who had already been here for a week spoke about the sailing trip with reverence for its absolute funness. The drive there was long but eventful. We saw lots of countryside with small but prosperous looking towns. I think that pretty much everywhere we go is prosperous compared to Nejapa, the suburb of Managua where we stay. It was a good showcase of all the crops that grow in the country. We saw sugarcane, corn, and even some swampy rice paddies all pretty close to one another. The city of San Juan del Sur was like Granada in its obvious touristic disposition. I saw a few rare white people in the streets. There was no time for city exploring though. To the ocean!




In a Herculean show of self control, I didn't sing even one verse of the Banana Boat Song.


Now is a good time though. Give me a minute.





View San Juan del Sur in a larger map
The blue dot is marking where San Juan del Sur is located. While I have your geographical attention I think it's a good time to talk about why the US was so interested in meddling with Nicaragua. Before the Panama Canal and the transcontinental railway were constructed, this was a major route to ship people/things between New York and California. Ships would travel the San Juan River until they reached Lake Nicaragua and then the cargo would be transferred across that narrow bit of land near Rivas via stagecoach to reach the Pacific.

In the late 1800's the two candidates for awesome canals were Nicaragua and Panama. Nicaraguan General Jose Zelaya proclaimed that only Nicaragua would have sovereignty over a canal in its territory. So... the US built its canal in Panama. Later Zelaya was in talks to with the Japanese to build a canal to rival ours in Panama. So... we sent in the Marines to oust him from power. While under US occupation Nicaragua was so kind as to sign a treaty granting the US perpetual right to any canal built in Nicaragua. Not because we wanted one, but because we didn't want them to have one. A principal actor in the fight against the US and its Nicaraguan allies was General Augusto Sandino, the cowboy looking gentleman I mentioned being plastered all over the country in my previous post.

While chatting with our friend Emilio he wondered why Americans don't learn about any of this in school. I replied that if we spent time learning about every country we've screwed over the years we probably wouldn't have time to learn about anything else. End Tangent.







We were taxied out to a good size catamaran sailboat. The captain was an amusing character. I think he was Nicaraguan but he had a cool Californian/Hawaiian sort of beach bum way of speaking English which I appreciated. The bow on the package was his Beavis and Butthead t-shirt. I was impressed how short a time it took for the Nicaragua I’d being living in to disappear. There was barely any other sign of life, just beautiful water and beach scenes.








We drifted by a spot with two rocks jutting up from the water a ways out from the beach. It turns out that the two seasons of Survivor that were filmed in Nicaragua took place on this beach. I religiously watched the first couple seasons of that show, so I appreciated that bit of Survivor trivia. A few of us on the boat reminisced that when the show first came out we were crazy about it, but that was before Tivo and watching TV online so we all had to just be in front of the TV at the same time each week. And watch commercials! Gasp! Dark times indeed.





The other crew members spoke English really well also. Not only did they do all the rope pulling that a sailboat requires they served as bartenders and waiters as well. One of the few rules of the Nicaragua trip was no drinking and this was our one day of dispensation. We had a bit of time to swim to shore and mess around. The beach was in movement, with shells moving about on top of hermit crabs. There were some larger bright orange crabs living past the beach line but if you got too close they would scamper into their holes.

On our return journey, when we were approaching the port at San Juan, there were only a few lights to be seen despite the recently set sun. Our captain chimed in that this was because the city’s power was out.


Luckily electricity returned by the time we arrived at the pizza joint.